I’ve been having a pretty tough time of it lately. When you look out the window and see flurries of snow during a Chicago April or May day you can start to feel a little deflated about the progress of the season, and when you’re already feeling deflated about your personal progress, that can doubly weigh you down.
In these redbud winter days, I turn to my old friend rhubarb, a pink food that resists easy categorization. I have always had a sour tooth, and from the time I first tried rhubarb as a pre-teen, I loved it. I also liked how it was kind of weird (vegetable you treat like a fruit, poisonous leaves, requires cooking to be palatable) because I felt like a weird kid, and now I feel like a weird adult.
Back then I loved to bake, so that was its main application. I love Rhubarb in a pound cake, but one of my favorite sweet rhubarb recipes is a recent one by Melissa Clark– these rhubarb custard bars.
In the last few years rhubarb has taken on some more savory uses for me. It changes over time– often becoming more vegetal when harvested in warmer weather. The stalks are more tender and delicately flavored in these early days. It keeps for about 2 weeks in the fridge, so I don’t stress out as much as with some other fresh fruits about using it right away.
I used to think of rhubarb as a harbinger of spring that I would buy once or twice in March or April and make something sweet and that’s it.
I am still really excited at the first sight of rhubarb, but lately I may notice the end of the season more than the start. In the midwest the last rhubarb is usually harvested in late June or July, often coinciding with the strawberry season. Then you know it’s really summer, and that you’ve come out of the cold and reached the mirage, to paraphrase Joan Didion. It’s true what she says, « it’s easy to see the beginning of things, and harder to see the ends. » The fade out of the rhubarb run in June makes visible the passage of spring, and the hard-won arrival of summer.
Rhubarb Sauce
Nice with pancakes, also pork chops, tenderloin or belly.
Wash rhubarb and chop into 1 inch pieces. Place cut fruit in a saucepan and add water, just enough to cover the rhubar
b. For every stalk of rhubarb or so, add a tablespoon of sugar or honey. Bring to a boil then turn down heat to a simmer. You don’t have to do much stirring. Cook until rhubarb breaks apart completely and serve.
Rhubarb Quick Pickle
delicious addition to any salad, or as a giardineria-style friend for cheese and charcuterie
Cut rhubarb into thin (about quarter inch slices) and put in a small bowl or jar.
Heat a wine vinegar, water, sugar, salt and a couple of black peppercorns in a saucepan. For every two rhubarb stalks or so use 1 cup of vinegar, 1/2 c water, 1/2 c sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Heat until the sugar and salt is just disolved. Pour over the rhubarb. Let sit. Once it’s at room temp, cover and keep in fridge and use within a week.
For a nice salad: get some escarole or other sturdy, bitter green, some sheep or goat feta, some pistachios and have a fun salad art time arrange them all mixed into little composed nooks on a plate, drizzle with the pickling liquid and some olive oil. I wanted to take another picture in better light but then i ate it, it was really satisfying to snack on.
There’s several new wines in ! We have some very exciting new Georgian wines in the store this week – three new orange wines and one cherry-juice red. They are utterly perfect for an afternoon glass on a brisk spring day.
We also added a stunning orange wine from another planet, Les Oeillets from Jean Yves Péron. Then there's also the unequivicaolly delicious Vermut from Partida Creus. Order it and get a bottle of sparkling water (one of the best, it's called Agua de Piedra) with your purchase. Easy spritz, sweet and tart just like your rhubarb.
Find them all in the shop.
We are here for all your thoughts, questions and concerns about cooking and drinking on these mercurial spring days. Email rainbowwinechi@gmail.com or DM @rainbow_wines anytime - we love to hear from you.
- Cub
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